Maybe I Over-Hyped It…

Kanazawa… Much bigger than I thought it would be. In the end, it turned out to be just another big city. Before I came here, I thought it was going to be a quiet area, what with the historical Geisha districts, Samurai districts, Kanazawa Castle, and Kenroku-en Garden, Kanazawa’s most famous attraction and one of Japan’s top three gardens, but like I said, it turned out to be another metropolitan.

My first stop was the garden. It was a nice stroll, but it’s hard to appreciate the sheer beauty of it when you can hear the traffic of city not too far off, and one of the views includes a view of the city itself. I was a little disappointed considering this is supposed to be Kanazawa’s most famous attraction. I spent most of time in the garden people-watching from a sheltered area overlooking the Kasumigaike Pond, and that was enjoyable for the time it lasted. The sun was shining, the weather was hot, and the workers were busy maintaining the lush gardens.  The workers were something to watch. Several Japanese women donning the same attire, each crouched to the ground and carefully picking out weeds from the grass with nothing more but their hands and small sickles.

Next on the list was Kanazawa Castle… a big disappointment. The Castle was under construction, and therefore completely covered by tarps. Not much to see from the outside, and I didn’t feel like paying for another ticket to go see the inside. It was starting to get cloudy, so I wanted to see the outdoors stuff before (if) it started raining. In Kanazawa, there’s a saying that goes “even if you forget your lunchbox, don’t forget your umbrella”. You can’t count on the weather here; it changes without warning from good to bad in no time. Luckily, however, that wasn’t the case today.

I walked across the city over to the Geisha districts. The history was nice, but all I saw it as was a street full of tourists. No Geishas. They usually DO come out at night though, so maybe I’ll head back there tonight for some tea and dessert or something and maybe catch a show. I was going to go visit the Samurai district afterward, but only one house is open, and I imagine it wouldn’t be much different than the Geisha district.

On my way back to my Ryokan, I walked through the markets. The fish market smelled like fish. I mean, it REALLY smelled like fish. Squid, crab, tuna, etc. Most of it full sized, un-filleted, and smelly. Then I made my way through the shopping mall where I found plenty of delicious looking foods and it’s probably where I’m going to head for dinner tonight.

Maybe I’m just not visiting the right places, maybe it’s the hot sticky weather, maybe I’m tired, maybe it’s the fact that I’m doing this alone, but these sights aren’t doing it for me right now. Don’t get me wrong, Japan is an amazing country with amazing people, but I need something more. I am following an itinerary that was given out on www.japan-guide.com for Japan, and maybe that’s the problem. It’s not tailored to exactly what I want to do. China, Vietnam, Thailand, Nepal, and India were all planned by yours truly, so maybe the experience will be better. More hiking, more mountains, more rural areas, more culture. That’s what I’m after! A cultural challenge, a mental challenge, a physical challenge. It’s what I want and it’s what I hope to get from the remainder of this trip.

Anyways, short day today. I’m off to Kyoto tomorrow morning.

Ja!

-LL

P.S. To answer Matt’s question, the water turns clockwise in Japan (at least here anyways). =P

In Kanazawa with Sore Feet

Quick update… not much to say because I didn’t do much today. I woke up this morning in my nice Gassho House with breakfast waiting for me in the dining area. The old lady wasn’t around, so I just started eating. Scrambled eggs, baked eggplant, some more tomatoes, and FOUR big raisin bread buns. She said all the bread was a gift to me, but I checked the expiration date… lo and behold, they expired the previous day. Whatever, it looked fine, it tasted fine, and I’m not really stingy about expiration dates. LOL! The lady asked for 5,000 yen, which was less than what I had expected (considering most other Gassho accomodations charge 7,700 yen and up), but then again, I did not ask for a dinner. But here’s the really nice part. As I was about to leave, she comes back to me and gives me back 500 yen. I politely declined the kind offer, but she insisted by saying “You hike, you need money, go buy food.” I was astonished and blown away. She had absolutely no reason to even care about what or where I was going, but here she was, a single old lady looking out for a gai-jin (foreigner) on his adventure through Japan. The people here have not ceased to amaze me since the moment I stepped in this country.

My bus wasn’t leaving for another 2 hours, but my feet were so battered up from the hike the day before that I didn’t feel like walking much, so I found a quiet spot beside the river, and sat and stared for those 2 hours. It was refreshing looking at the mountains and Gassho Houses. It’s a place I could have definitely have spent a few more days in, but I had to move on to see the rest of the country. I slept on every bus and train ride from Shirakawa-go to Kanazawa.

When I got to Kanazawa, I came to Ryokan Shibaya to see if they had a room, and luckily, they did. Cheaper than I thought it would be too! As they prepared my room, they instructed me to go clean off and that the room would be ready in about 45 minutes. When I made my way to the basement, I was treated to a very nice, refreshing, and soothing hot spring style tub. I scrubbed the dirt off my body and hopped in. The water was piping hot, but it felt sooooo good. I stayed in until my room was ready, and afterward, I did laundry. Like I said, not a very exciting day, but I’m exhausted and I need a day like this. That’s why I’ll be spending an extra night in Kanazwa to make up for lost time.

Anyways, I posted the pics from Shirakawa-go. Enjoy!

Ja!

-LL

P.S. What’s the deal with everyone telling me to go shower as soon as I get in??? Do I smell that bad?!